On your next visit to the Philippines, if you plan to shop fashionable pieces from some of the country’s many talented local designers, you should preview the latest collection of Dennis Lustico, one of the 10 Filipino fashion designers with international impact that we recently highlighted on KUBO.
Dennis Lustico’s PAMANA collection is a celebration of Philippine heritage. It is also a journey into design exploration informed by 25 stellar years in fashion. Every piece in the collection is a tribute to the creative process and time-honored tradition of craft. “For this collection, I was very mindful about respecting the fabrics and materials. I was also keen on creating pieces that are lasting: pieces that you can keep and wear for many years to come. When someone finds lasting connection with my designs or deeply relates to it, that’s when I know that I did a beautiful job.”
As pieces for the PAMANA collection come together, there’s a distinct sense of order, calm, and clarity in the workroom in Lustico’s studio. Muslin is draped on dress forms to achieve the desired fit. Yards of Philippine tropical fabrics like piña are sewn with surgical precision. “We are using very delicate fabrics,” he explained.
“I am more unhurried in putting this collection together. I wanted to do everything right,” he emphasizes, as he goes through the sketches laid on a working table. Toward the back of the atelier, a small team is dedicated to cutting tiny cubes of wood and painting them with lacquer, all by hand. Patches of needlework in the shape of indigenous flora are strategically attached onto cocktail dresses and tops.
“I began working on the collection in February 2024,” Lustico shares. PAMANA, the designer’s homage to Philippine life and heritage, explores new ways of conveying our stories and identity as a nation. “Usually, when we hear the word pamana, we immediately think of the terno or baro’t saya. I wanted to do something that had not yet been done: something that’s contemporary yet will resonate even to a global audience.”
Pamana: A Salon Show Presentation by Dennis Lustico was held last October 3, 2024, at the Goldenberg Mansion in Manila. It was hosted by First Lady Liza Araneta Marcos.
Falling in love with the creative process again
Lustico’s process in putting together PAMANA is as much a masterpiece as the garments produced for the collection. “Everything feels more organized this time,” he observes. “For the first time, I’m working with a design team that has been a sounding board for realizing this vision.”
He was also embracing the slow process, taking every necessary step to create a visual and tactile style narrative. A collection of this scale, 50 pieces to be exact, knows neither shortcuts nor compromises. From creating a mood board to developing fabrics and sourcing new materials, “In making PAMANA, I fell in love with the creative process all over again,” Lustico admits.
The Filipino story through design
Months leading up to the show, Lustico dedicated his time to collaborating closely with artisans from Aklan, Lumban, and the northern regions of Luzon. Distinctive patterns that follow the likeness of gumamela, kalabasa leaves, and flowers were seamlessly integrated into diaphanous fabrics woven exclusively for the show.
According to Lustico, thoughtful placement of patterns on sheaths of piña considered how fabrics would be cut for contemporary garments. Lumban’s time-honored tradition of needlework was also celebrated in PAMANA. Callado and meticulous embroidery of anahaw and malunggay leaves added depth and texture to Dennis’ signature silhouettes.
Inspired by the historic stone houses of Batanes, Lustico also began to experiment with new materials that would bring elements of Philippine architecture to his garments. Small wooden squares, each one individually cut and lacquered, were used to embellish tops and shift dresses. Fringe trimmings were also incorporated into his designs as a nod to the thatched roof of the bahay na bato.
“I was truly engrossed by the process. Everyday at the studio, I would be excited to see the outcome of each piece,” he intimates. “When you honor the process and not rush things, you really learn so much from every garment.”
A master of restrained elegance
Throughout his 25 year journey, Lustico has been celebrated for his mastery of tailoring, color, and fabrication. PAMANA’s palette is made up of muted hues punctuated by metallic tones. Natural, lilac, periwinkle, lime, and olive green contrast beautifully against gold, brass and copper. It is testament to the designer’s prowess in utilzing color to make a sartorial statement.
“My focus was simply and solely to make beautiful clothes. There was a practice in restraint in that I wanted every piece to connect with my audience. After 25 years, I am no longer interested in shock value or impressing others,” the designer said.
True to form, silhouettes from the collection are decidedly easy, relatable, and wearable. Lustico’s ability to edit and pull back comes from decades of dressing the country’s well-heeled. Shift dresses, boxy tops, and oversized blouses are flawlessly tailored to serve as the base for Lustico’s tapestry of colors, textures, and patterns. “I’ve always created pieces that are wearable and timeless,” he says.
For PAMANA, the designer’s restraint helped to balance out the richness in details with global relatability. The self-taught designer opines, “The collection is distinctly Filipino, but also relatable to a global audience. I imagine some of my pieces being worn abroad and standing out because of the elements that tell the Filpino story.”
Visit Lustico’s shop at 1167A Antipolo St., Brgy. Valenzuela, Makati City. You can call +63918-9211269 for an appointment.
